When planning my Albania itinerary, I was overwhelmed with HOW MUCH this beautiful country offers - from ancient Greek ruins, to fairytale style old European towns that look like they are straight from Italy, to an entire coastline of crystal clear beaches, to the incredible scale of The Albanian Alps. In planning, I had to extend our trip here twice; there are just too many places we needed to experience.
One tricky part in planning is that the Tirana airport is located right in the middle of the country, with can't-miss spots both far North and far South, making it impossible to plan a route without a little backtracking. I moved everything around over and over, and this is THE most efficient route for a full, unforgettable Albania Tour.
+ Scroll to the bottom of this post for a downloadable Google Map of the route! +
How is the driving in Albania? We had read that Albanian drivers were "insane", but honestly, we found this not to be true, and mostly only saw really aggressive driving around Tirana and especially around the Tirana airport. I live in Los Angeles, so if you are only used to small-town driving, it could be a bit overwhelming. Overall, we found the roads to be well-maintained and easy to follow with Google Maps. Albania is currently investing a ton into its infrastructure as its tourism market is expected to boom - this route takes you through the 6-kilometer Llogara Tunnel that blasts right through a mountain, cutting off over 40 minutes of drive time.
Night 1: Tirana
With so much to see in Albania, we only spent our arrival night in Tirana and started on our road trip the next morning - and we definitely feel like that is the correct decision. I love cities, and it's not that Tirana is bad at all - I would just say it doesn't hold up to how amazing the rest of Albania is. If you're arriving from a long-haul or in the evening, an overnight stay here to refresh feels perfect. If you are arriving from somewhere else in Europe, I would consider heading straight out from the airport to your first destination.
We picked up our car at the airport and stayed at The Tirana Marriott Hotel for our first night, as we flew straight in from LA. The hotel was a great city stop with super comfortable beds, free parking, and extremely walkable - I would highly recommend. If you're staying for dinner, take a walk to Eja Restaurant.
Where To Stay
- Tirana Marriott: Our arrival-night hotel, with comfortable rooms and an easy base for a walk around central Tirana.
- Maritim Hotel Plaza Tirana: A central option near Skanderbeg Square with a spa and several restaurants.
- Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel & Spa: A more ornate city stay near the Grand Park, with a rooftop restaurant and spa.
What To Do: Tours and Experiences
- Tirana guided walking tour: Get oriented around Skanderbeg Square and the city’s central landmarks with a local guide.
- Tirana food and city tour: Combine sightseeing with Albanian dishes and drinks on a guided food-focused walk through the capital.
- Dajti cable car with transport: Choose the Tirana pickup option for a cable-car outing above the city, with mountain views when the weather is clear.
Night 2: Berat (Or Make It Just A Day Stop)
Driving Time: 2 Hours
The first stop is the UNESCO heritage listed town Berat: "The city of windows". The city of Berat was founded almost 2500 years ago in 300 BC and has a long and storied history, much of it built all the way back in medieval times. The stone walls and walkways look like they are out of a storybook, old medieval towns are one of my absolute favorite places to visit and shoot.
When deciding whether to stay in Berat or Gjirokaster (the next stop), we ultimately chose the latter and think if you are going to choose one of the two, Gjirokaster should be your pick. If you pack lighter than me and don't mind moving hotels more frequently, one night in Berat would be ideal to explore more - but a day trip gives you a great overview of this historic town, with enough time to have lunch, walk the streets, and explore Berat Castle - built in the 13th century.
For lunch, the best place to stop is Klea Restaurant. Just look at that garden!
Where To Stay
- Hotel Mangalemi: Stay in Berat’s historic center close to the old-town lanes and the climb toward the castle.
- Hotel Rezidenca Desaret: A small hotel near the Old Town with a terrace overlooking Berat.
- Hotel Colombo: A larger hotel with parking, an indoor pool, and a seasonal outdoor pool for a more resort-like overnight stop.
What To Do: Tours and Experiences
- Berat winery tour and tasting: Visit a regional winery with transport from Berat and taste local wines and raki; the winery varies with availability.
- Mama Nina’s cooking class: Learn traditional dishes with a local family inside Berat Castle, then sit down to the meal you helped prepare.
- Osum Canyon and Bogove Waterfall: Add a day for canyon scenery and the waterfall, choosing a package with transport from Berat rather than the canyon-only meeting option.
Night 3-4: Gjirokaster
Driving Time: 2.5 Hours
The stone city of Gjirokaster is so beautiful and photogenic, and a two-night stay here is perfect to see the sights, explore the winding stone roads of the town, try some of the great restaurants, shop for local crafts, and even fit in a hike up the mountain to the Ali Pasha Bridge.
When you arrive in Gjirokaster, plan to park your car and leave it there until you leave the city - the ancient streets are rough for driving and Google Maps doesn't exactly know which ones are not drivable. However, the city is very compact and walkable and it's easy to get to everything.
Make sure to have dinner at Vojsava Restaurant, this was one of our favorite, most affordable meals in Albania - and just look at how perfectly Europe summer it is. This was the first place we tried Tave Kosi, the Albanian national dish of lamb baked in a flavorful yogurt sauce, and it was good. If you eat meat, definitely don't miss trying this at least once.
Stay At Hotel Kalemi 2 - for less than $100 a night in prime season, it is right in the middle of the city, comes with free parking and a fantastic breakfast, and the hallways and rooms look like the interior of a castle. We could not have been happier with this hotel.
Where To Stay
- Hotel Kalemi 2: The hotel we loved for its traditional interiors, central location, and easy access to the old town.
- Hotel Kodra: Traditional-style rooms, a restaurant, and a terrace make this a scenic base for exploring Gjirokaster.
- Hotel Argjiro: A historic-building stay by Çerçiz Topulli Square with a restaurant serving local dishes.
What To Do: Tours and Experiences
- Gjirokaster castle, bazaar, and Ottoman houses: Explore the stone city’s fortress, bazaar, and traditional houses with a guide; check the selected option’s admission inclusions.
- Old Bazaar and Ali Pasha Bridge walk: Walk through the old neighborhoods toward the Ali Pasha Bridge with a guide who explains the city’s architecture and history.
- Gjirokaster local traditions experience: Spend a full day exploring local crafts, music, and food, including a hands-on cooking session with a local host.
Night 5-7: Sarande And Ksamil
Driving Time: 1.5 Hours
After the first few days of medieval cities and stone castles - we were READY to finally start our tour of the beaches, one of Albania's true highlights. With Albania being directly up the Mediterranean coastline from Greece (Ksamil is so close to the Greek island of Corfu you could practically Kayak there), the beaches are absolutely stunning with crystal clear water and white rocks or sand. One thing I love about Albania over Greece is that instead of needing to take ferries or fly from island to island, a road trip gives you so much more freedom to explore.
Should you stay in Ksamil or Sarande? While both cities are some of Albania's most known destinations, they weren't our favorite part of the coastline. Both cities are busy in the summer and big on parties, beach clubs, backpackers, and nightlife - which is super fun when that is what you are looking for! However, there is currently only one main road along the busiest stretch through a good portion of both cities - making driving around a slow process. We stayed at the edge of Sarande, but the center of Ksamil is the most walkable area and where I would choose if I was here to party.
While most places in Albania take credit cards, most places in Ksamil and Sarande strangely do not, even high-end restaurants - so make sure to take out some extra cash for this portion of your trip.
Spend a day at Butrint National Archaeological Park
A short drive South of Ksamil, this historic site is incredible and dates back to prehistoric times and each conquerer and age pretty. much built on top of the others, so there are ruins from Ancient Greece, The Roman Empire, and the middle ages interwoven with each other. In the summer it does get hot here and the park is an entire city, so plan to arrive as early as possible. Somewhat similar to Pompeii, the ruins here cover an entire ancient city, so be prepared to walk quite a bit.
If you would rather explore with a guide, the Butrint and southern highlights tour from Saranda combines the ruins with Xarre, the southern Blue Eye, and Lekuresi Castle.
Spend A Day at a Ksamil Beach Club
Grilled whole fish at Summer Gate
Rent a chair and umbrella and settle in for a beach day. There are tons and tons of option - from the expensive and design-y Principoses, which expanded their empire from their Mykonos club, to the more casual Summer Gate Beach Bar
Choosing where to stay here was a hard choice because there were just so many options all throughout both cities. We ended up choosing Siro Kerma Private Beach Villa, as it was one of the most unique options we found. This hotel is at the very North end of Sarande and has sunbeds and umbrellas on a private white-sand bay right at the hotel - something most hotels do not have outside of the huge resorts. It was incredibly quiet here and an amazing place to just relax and enjoy the beach. However, our room was one of the tiniest we have ever been in and located right on top of the restaurant so we had to keep the curtains closed. The other hotel we were considering is Limni Resort in Ksamil.
Where To Stay
- Siro Kerma Private Beach Villa: Our quieter Sarande beach stay; compare room categories carefully, since the room we booked was very small.
- Limni Resort: The Ksamil alternative we considered, with a seasonal pool, garden, and on-site restaurant.
- Hotel Saranda Palace: A coastal Sarande hotel with a seasonal pool and beach facilities for relaxed days near the water.
What To Do: Tours and Experiences
- Butrint and southern highlights from Saranda: Combine Butrint, Xarre, the southern Blue Eye spring, and Lekuresi Castle on a guided day trip from Saranda.
- Saranda boat trip to Kakome and Krorez: Leave from Saranda for coastal caves and swimming stops at bays and beaches along the Ionian coast.
- Blue Eye and Lekursi Castle sunset tour: Choose pickup in Ksamil or Saranda for a visit to the southern Blue Eye and sunset views from Lekursi Castle.
Night 8-10: Dhermi And Himare
Driving Time: 3 Hours
These beach towns farther north are much quieter and more peaceful than the chaos and party of Ksamil - when we were speaking with locals throughout the first few days of our trip, we overwhelmingly heard how much they loved this area over the South. We chose Dhermi to stay in over Himare and were very glad we did, as the main beach of Himare also felt very touristy.
There are incredible beaches here - we didn't have enough time to see as many of these as I wish we could have, as some are a mission to access. If you have more time, you could easily spend a week here hopping from beach to beach. One you should check out that I didn't have time to is Filikuri Beach!
Spend a Day at Gjipe Beach
Gjipe Beach is located right in between the two cities of Himare and Dhermi - and can be reached by a hike (around 20-30 minutes and overall easy) which keeps the beach pristine. A rental chair and umbrella here is €20 and there are a few small restaurants and beach bars for cold drinks and food. Don't miss the cliffs on the far left side of the beach!
You can also reach Gjipe by sea on a Himare boat tour or a guided kayaking trip from Dhermi, depending on weather and sea conditions.
Stop for lunch in Vuno
Between Himare and Dhermi is the little picturesque village of Vuno. We stopped here at a restaurant simply called "Mom's Food" - where we walked into a kitchen to see the home-cooked offerings of the day by Mom. We ate the best Moussaka of our lives on the terrace here.
Where To Stay
- Olives Residence, Dhermi: A Dhermi option with pools and garden or sea-view rooms; check the room location and beach arrangements before booking.
- Rea Boutique Hotel, Himare: A small beachfront hotel near Himare’s port with a restaurant and sea-view room options.
- Dimitri Hotel, Livadhi Beach: Stay by Livadhi Beach outside central Himare for beach days with a pool close at hand.
What To Do: Tours and Experiences
- Himare boat tour to Pirate’s Cave and Gjipe: Cruise from Himare along the Riviera toward caves and Gjipe Beach, with swimming stops dependent on sea conditions.
- Grama Bay and Blue Cave from Dhermi: Take a boat from Dhermi to explore Grama Bay and sea caves on a longer coastal outing.
- Dhermi kayaking and Gjipe Beach tour: Paddle with a guide along Dhermi’s coast, with snorkeling and beach stops along the way to Gjipe.
Driving Stop - Uka Farm Restaurant, Tirana
From Dhermi, either way you travel to next (Up to Montenegro or straight over to Theth), this is the longest driving day of the journey. If you are road tripping by RV, this would be the perfect day to break up the drive and stay at an RV resort or campground for a memorable, nature-filled experience. Part way through, stop at the incredible Uka Farm Restaurant. A restaurant professional friend recommended this place to us and we were so happy we stopped here - the property is beautiful, expansive and lush, and the food was incredible, with a menu of traditional farm-to-table Albanian dishes. Our waiter specially ordered smaller sample portions of the dishes so we could try more of them, and this might have been our favorite meal in the entire country. They also had the best Albanian wine we had throughout our entire trip. I don't have any photos of our meat courses, we were too excited and ate them too quickly!
They make their own wine with some local grape varietals we had never heard of. The wine was all chosen by the waiter and paired perfectly with each course; one of our favorites was their "Udha Shgipëria Në Shishe" (don't ask me to pronounce that) - a red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shesh i Zi, and Kallmet. The local winemakers there also told us how Albania has the longest continuous history of viticulture in Europe, traced back to 6000 years ago.
If you don't have time to stop on the way, Uka is also located very close to Tirana Airport, and is a great place to stop either as a first stop on your way in, or last stop before heading out of Albania.
If you turn this stop into another night in Tirana, Tirana Marriott makes an easy city base. With a spare afternoon, book a Tirana food and city tour for a separate introduction to the capital’s food scene.
ADD-ON: 4 nights in Perast, Montenegro
Driving Time: 5 Hours, Includes a border crossing
If you are able to spend more time, I would highly recommend continuing the journey North and crossing the border into Montenegro to add a second country to this trip and spend a few days on the Bay of Kotor. The border crossing is easy to do driving, at the border you need to purchase a €15 pass, and just show your passport.
Skip staying in the town of Budva (The old city is a great day stop), and the iconic Sveti Stefan (but at least pull over to get a view from the road) and book your hotel in the town of Perast - the most beautiful gem on the bay.
Perast is reminiscent of Lake Como with the bay and mountains always behind, and is truly one of the most beautiful little cities on the Mediterranean - with impeccably preserved stone buildings, red tile roofs, a winding maze of cobble stone streets and restaurants perched on the water. If you want to splurge a bit (or use travel points like we did), book the unbeatable Heritage Grand Perast By Rixos Hotel.
While in Montenegro, visit the old city of Kotor and climb the serpentine stairs up the Kotor Fortress, take a boat tour to the blue cave, and see the Our Lady Of The Rock 17th century island church.
We booked an extremely well-priced private boat tour with Black Pearl of Perast and had a truly incredible day exploring the bay.
Where To Stay
- Heritage Grand Perast: The Perast hotel we chose, with a beautiful bayfront setting, spa, and pools.
- Conte Hotel & Restaurant: Historic accommodations spread between a main building and annexes around Perast, with a waterfront restaurant.
- Hotel Admiral: A smaller Perast hotel with a waterfront restaurant and terrace; arrange parking separately.
What To Do: Tours and Experiences
- Black Pearl private boat tour from Perast: Book a private Bay of Kotor outing with the operator we used, visiting Our Lady of the Rocks and the Blue Cave area as conditions allow.
- Kotor Old Town walking tour: Meet your guide in Kotor for a walk through its historic lanes and squares during your day trip from Perast.
- Private Bay of Kotor kayaking: Start near Kotor’s port for a guided paddle past waterfront villages with optional swimming stops.
Night 11-13: Theth And The Albanian Alps
Driving Time From Perast: 6-7 Hours, with a challenging final stretch over the mountains into Theth
Driving Time From Dhermi: 5.5 Hours, same mountain passes
The "Albanian Alps" of Theth and the surrounding towns is by far the most underrated part of Albania. I knew about the beaches - but I didn't know how incredible these mountains were until I got into trip planning. The extra driving time is unequivocally worth it - and make sure to allow a good amount of time, as the final stretch of highway winds up over the peaks of the mountains before descending into the valley. It is one of the most stunning stretches of road I have seen anywhere in the world - it is really hard to capture the sheer magnitude of these mountains in photos - and the road is well maintained, but the kind of twisting mountain pass you want to take slowly.
Also - do not be fooled by Google Maps, if you are looking to go to Lumi Shales, you can NOT get there from Theth. The river boats depart from much closer to Shkoder. While we were unable to make it to this spot, Theth on its own is incredible
We stayed at the beautiful, newly opened Hotel Thethi and loved our time here. The views are spectacular, and the family running the hotel were incredibly kind and great hosts. Their dinner service is a flat fee for what feels like an endless array of local dishes, served family style. I cannot recommend this hotel enough!
The Blue Eye Hike
The hike to Syri i Kalter (The Blue Eye) is around an hour each way and overall easy to do - but the reward at the end is worth it. As the final pool was in sight all I could say was "damn it really is THAT blue". The water here is very cold, but an incredibly pure mountain spring worth seeing. Climb the ladder for a tree-house restaurant and bar perched on top of the pool that feels like it's straight out of Bali or The Philippines.
Grunasi / Theth Waterfall
The hike up to the Theth Waterfall is shorter than the blue eye, and we easily did both in the same day. The waterfall at the end here is incredible!
Where To Stay
- Hotel Thethi: Our mountain stay, with beautiful valley views and a restaurant for dinner after a day on the trails.
- Bujtina Tinari: A village guesthouse with a garden and restaurant, well placed for a slower stay in Theth.
- Bujtina Miqesia: A mountain guesthouse with private bathrooms, a garden, and on-site parking.
What To Do: Guided Alternatives
These packages depart from Shkoder or Tirana and replace or extend this self-drive mountain section. If you are already staying in Theth, arrange a local guide through your guesthouse rather than booking a tour that starts elsewhere.
- Theth National Park day tour from Shkoder: Use a guided day trip from Shkoder as an alternative to driving into Theth yourself; confirm the included hikes and return arrangements.
- Three-day Valbona, Theth, and Blue Eye hiking tour: Replace the self-drive mountain segment with a guided multi-day trip from Tirana, including the Valbona-to-Theth hike and guesthouse stays.
- Shala River and Komani Lake day trip: Explore Komani Lake and the Shala River on a separate outing from Shkoder; this is not a boat trip departing from Theth.
Theth Back to Tirana
Driving Time: 3 Hours
From Theth, you can head back to Tirana, return your rental car, and begin your journey home.
For a final overnight stay, book Tirana Marriott or Maritim Hotel Plaza Tirana. If your flight schedule leaves time, a guided walking tour is an easy way to see more of the capital before leaving.
Save The Route Map On Google Maps Here
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